Day 9 - Going to Cambodia city centre, Phnom Penh

11:54 PM BACKPACKING, CAMBODIA, CIRCUIT HOTEL, FROM KL to TAIWAN, MEKONG EXPRESS LIMOUSINE BUS, PHNOM PENH, SIEM REAP, TRAVEL, TRAVEL AND JOURNEY No Comments

My bus ride from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh was scheduled in the noon. Many reviews found in the internet indicated good comments about Mekong Limousine Express bus services. Since they also operate Siem Reap – Phnom Penh route, I had opted to try out the service. The 6 hours ticket price was US$11/ one way and after safely arrived in Phnom Penh I can say this – unexpected good service =.="

Siem Reap was raining, again, that morning. So, I decided to just stay at the guesthouse for the rest of the morning. Good thing when you are travelling in South East Asia is you can get complimentary pick up and drop off services whenever you purchase accommodation, travel or tour arrangement. Instead of spending extra cash for tuk tuk or taxi, my pick up to the bus station arrived about noon. Siem Reap main bus station is located in the market area, about 20 minutes from the guesthouse.

The bus system was extremely good – with luggage tagging system for bags that are stored at the luggage compartment, refreshment serves during the journey and an English speaking guide on the bus for the entire journey. Along the way, the guide also shared some interesting information about several towns which we had passed through.

The entire trip was relatively smooth, although the road was not as good as in Malaysia. However, there was a 30 minutes rough ride when the bus had to go through an unfinished road route. I was amazed how flat Cambodia land is, along the way ever since I entered the country from Thailand, however, it was a shocking truth to see how dusty Cambodia can be during the dry season. An hour away from Phnom Penh was a route where drivers must be highly skilled. Dust was everywhere on the road, just like the morning mist or terrible smog.

Anyway, I reached Phnom Penh at around 7pm. The bus stop somewhere near the riverside area, and upon coming down the bus we can immediately see a flock of tuk tuk drivers waiting for business. I was lucky to get a tuk tuk driver who was very kind (he was also my guide for the next two days). Apparently my hotel was located nearby the Central Market area. I checked in at Circuit Hotel and my first impression when I saw my room was total amazement. The room was obviously a good bargain for that kind of quality and service – US$15/night. See pictures of the room I stayed in Day 9 album.

Take note that it is not easy to find Halal food restaurant in Phnom Penh. My first meal was vegetable fried rice with egg at a restaurant across the street of my hotel. Somehow it felt weird because of the restaurant name – Arabica Restaurant.

The day ended with me going to be late, as I was trying to upload pictures to facebook and tried to write the previous entries for my journey in Siem Reap. Mr Vurf, the tuk tuk driver will only come at 9.30am for my next day plan, leaving me enough sleeping hours.

Next entry will be about the bustling city of Phnom Penh. 
Check out Day 9 pictures here >>

Day 9 - Going to Cambodia city centre, Phnom Penh

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Day 8: It's all about History in Siem Reap

11:57 PM ANGKOR, BACKPACKING, CAMBODIA, FROM KL to TAIWAN, SIEM REAP, TONLE SAP, TRAVEL, TRAVEL AND JOURNEY No Comments

The plan for the day was simple – visit Banteay Srei and Barray. In between just enjoy the Angkor historical sites. Since I have seen Angkor Wat in my last visit, this time I had to skip a walk in Angkor Wat. On the way to Bakheng Hill yesterday I could see extensive conservation works at the Angkor Wat area, thus I believe my decision to skip Angkor Wat would be best for my interest this time.

Many of Angkorian temples were constructed using sandstone; which gave them unique grayish colour. One temple, however, was not white or grayish. Lady’s temple or Banteay Srei had been constructed by a scholar and it has the most unique brick-reddish colour. Later I learnt that it was built with sandstone as well, but a unique type which gave the reddish shade.

This temple is located far from the Angkor historical site entrance. My tuk tuk ride was like a fast moving horse riding experience, more than 50 minutes. The weather was not bright and hot. The morning rain had stopped before I decided to make my move, but the sun was just shying off. Throughout the day the weather was cool with cloudy skies. The temple was still under conservation works, but most area is accessible for tourist. It was indeed a small temple, compared to Angkor Wat. I immediately noticed the great architectural style of the temple with entrances or windows aligning straight from one to another – creating a mirror-in-mirror effect. Too bad I was walking alone, otherwise I may be able to get someone to snap pictures to capture this mirroring effect, with me included, of course. The main temple area was closed for public to walk. Nevertheless, since it is an open area, you can clearly see the beautiful stone art on the wall of the main structure. I was left speechless to see the delicate work of art on every inch of the temple structure.

The Angkor historical area is huge housing many temple ruins which were built during different Angkorian era. On my way out from the Banteay Srei, I could see houses where people make living with doing traditional agriculture activities. Aside from the houses and many paddy fields with buffaloes roaming, there was also sugar making activities along the road. Most of these houses were built and a few even have basic conventional water well (pump) which are clearly donated by others (indicated from signs erected near the houses).

My guide toured around the Angkor historical sites for about an hour. Besides from the temple ruins, I could also see how grand the old civilization was – huge entrance gates, bridges, walls and many other interesting structures. While I was going through the area my mind was trying to imagine how people lived during those days. This area must have been rich with people on the move, variety of sounds and smell, and with full sense of life. Many of the great structures remained intact; we even drove through a very big gate.

About an hour and half after we arrived at Barray area – the biggest first man made water catchment structure. The stretch of the Barray lake is 8 km x 2.2 km and it was created to serve as damn for the Angkorian people, especially during the dry season whereby water was big problem. This area now serves as a recreational site for local people. I wanted to take a dive in the water but since it was already crowded with people (it’s the Khmer new year season now – people are starting their enjoyment of the season), I chose to take my quiet time admiring the area.

I had my late lunch at Barray. Take a peek at my photo album and you’ll notice how unique the eating spots are built. I had grilled fish with rice, mango sauce and banana wrapped with sticky rice. The eating spots are with hanging hammocks for people to take rest after big lunch.

Thanks to my guide, he had also arranged my bus ticket to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. The day ended early for me, as I wanted to do some packing and rest. Next destination would be Phnom Penh. The original plan of getting to Phnom Penh with boat had to be scrapped off – the river or water canal are technically dried at this time.

In total, I had wonderful time in Siem Reap; especially with the aid of a Malay speaking guide. For those who have not visit Siem Reap, this is a place to learn about South East Asia history, do a fair bit of shopping and just enjoy the excitement of the city. I have to warn though, it is definitely not a cheap city (for an ASEAN nation) – even the locals agree that those who live in Siem Reap is in their own league (I guess it is because of the living cost).

Browse photos here from facebook album >> Day 8 - Angkorian Temples (Banteay Srei) and late lunch at Barray

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Day 7: Revisiting Siem Reap

12:29 AM ANGKOR, BACKPACKING, BAKHENG HILL, CAMBODIA, FLOATING VILLAGE, FROM KL to TAIWAN, MORADOK THAI GUESTHOUSE, PUB STREET, SIEM REAP, TONLE SAP, TRAVEL, TRAVEL AND JOURNEY No Comments

The last time I came to Siem Reap was about 4 years ago. I remembered celebrating my birthday in Siem Reap after SIGA 2007 completed. I have always wanted to come back again to Siem Reap and see more.

Here I was, having breakfast at Oudum Angkor Villa after waking up from a good night sleep. A family friend is from Cambodia and he had given a name for me to contact while in Siem Reap – to arrange a tour. Funny, his name is Yusuf – same as the guide given by the guesthouse. Soon I found out that both Yusufs know each other and have been working together for quite some time.

Fascinated by geography subject while in high school, this time would really want to see the largest fresh water lake – Tonle Sap Lake. Although it is dry season, there are still people who make living from the lake. The journey from the guesthouse to the boat area was about 20 minutes. Along the way I cannot help from noticing the road which is highly elevated from the land and houses are built with high columns. Later I learnt that Cambodia is a country with huge (I mean huge) delta flat area. The houses are built with high columns because the land area will be flooded – many of the land area are part of the lake.

The boat rent including tour cost a standard US$20 rate. The area where you are to take the boats are still under construction – I am sure once it is done, it will be comfortable and highly convenient for many tourist.

Extremely low water level – about 1 meter in depth, made the maneuver of boats extremely slow and difficult. The water was too murky due to the dry season and low water level. Along the canal up to the vast lake area, there were many idle boats with people living inside them. Funny I could also see many naked children running or playing on the river banks while adults were mainly netting fish. After about 20 minutes ride, the boat entered the lake area. It was so wide and vast I felt like I was boating in sea. Not so far I could see hundreds of floating houses. These are floating villages whereby the people have been living on the lake for ages. During the flood season, these villages will move their houses near to the canal instead of being so far in the lake.

It was floating residential with shops, and even school are on water. One disturbing scene during my whole visit in Siem Reap, especially here at the floating village, was seeing small kids in dire state helping their parents selling on small boats. Although it was a clear poor condition, many of them still could smile and laugh happily; which made me wonder how life could have been for them if situation is different. The view from rooftop of a floating restaurant was mesmerizing.

On the way heading back to town, we made a stop at a Muslim Restaurant. It was next to a mosque somewhere in a small residential area. It is the area where, Yusuf, my guide, lives. Lunch was traditional chicken soup with fried eggs and some vegetables – total US$5. Then we headed to the newly built Angkor National Museum. Entrance with audio aid is charged at US$15, but the knowledge gained here is more than enough to understand about the great Angkor and Khmer civilization. The museum was very well organized starting with the basic of Hinduism influence to the establishment of Angkorian civilization and Cambodia in general. Many of the artifacts are from the ruins discovered from old temples all around Cambodia. Contrary to Thailand, Cambodia is an extremely great reflection of Hinduism – from the beginning of its empire. Walking and admiring the history and knowledge on my own awed me in many ways, especially how great the Khmer empire was.

After 2 hours touring the museum, my guide brought me to the Angkor historical area ticket booth. The prices are pretty much fixed. Take note that there are several types of entrance fees ranging from US$20 to US$60 and tourist are to buy ticket on their own (You are required to be photographed for the ticket).

The intention was to experience the beautiful sun set scene from Bakheng Hill. I wonder how it would be during the peak season. This old temple is located on a hill so you will have to push yourself up the hill. For those who do not have good stamina, a slow walk is possible for the climb – but you need to get there early. If you have additional cash, perhaps you would want to climb up the hill with elephant. There are several elephants available for tourist going up to the hill. It was a magnificent view from the above, minus the crowd. Also, many Angkorian temples have very steep stairs with narrow steps – be careful when you are climbing up and down.

I had to skip dinner – too much of rice since I arrived to Siem Reap. After a short rest, another Yusuf took me to the famous Pub Street. Here, you can see so many establishments of disco, pub and restaurants. As it is filled with entertainment so many tourists are seen here. All the shops here are refurbishment of the old French quarter building. The shop owners are only to do minor refurbishment, so you can still see the French architectural from the building blocks. After pub street, I wanted to see how the local spend time at night. So we headed to a similar place about 5 minutes motorcycle ride. In Malaysia we go to mamak for drinks and watch football. Here in Cambodia, people spend time in open bars – many now are built with modern western influence.

The day ended at about 1.30am. The ticket bought earlier will allow me to visit the Angkor area tomorrow. Check out Day 7 pictures here >> Day 7 – Siem Reap in Action

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